July 9, 2004
I know, I know, it's shocking to hear from us two days in a row when we should be out meeting people and seeing neat things, but after a miserable night, we decided David should get a malaria test done this morning, just in case, so we're taking a slow day. The test, by the way, was negative: thankfully he just has a really nasty sore throat with flu-like (and unfortunately, malaria-like) symptoms. We're actually too full of Tandoori food to write this email, but since it's a food theme, perhaps that's appropriate.
Interestingly, and somewhat to our surprise, there's a lot of fried meat around, with chicken being omnipresent (living or dead). The only American chain we've seen on the trip has been Kentucky Fried Chicken, though we haven't seen one here or in Mozambique, just S. Africa and Swaziland. There is, however, a South African fried chicken and chip chain called "The Hungry Lion," usually attached to an enormous grocery store, also of South African origins, ShopRite.
The main staple in Malawi is nsima, a maize-meal eaten with vegetable gravy, and, if you can afford it, fried meat. If you don't have nsima, you have chips (thanks to the British) or rice, though these options are mostly for urban areas, not small villages. The only food surprise we've had on the trip so far, was when seven fried mice pinned between two small sticks were thrust through the window of a minibus (fur, eyes and all!). The mice, called impani in Chichewa, the most widely spoken language, are considered quite good and are eaten whole, including the skulls (and again, with the fur!). Needless to say, we haven't tried any. However, they seem to be a cheap and abundant source of protein.
We have been taking advantage of the colonial heritage by eating lots of Indian food (the British having brought over Indian workers to their African colonies to help build the railroads). It's especially nice for us because Italians know they have the best food in the world, so you can't really get anything else in Italy. Otherwise, while camping, we eat a lot of rice and porridge. Fortunately we have several local spice options, including peri-peri, a very hot chili, with which to flavor our meals.
On the minibuses there's a variety of food offered through the windows during the all too frequent stops: fried dough (which is good!), fruit in season (bananas, oranges, strawberries, papaya), peanuts, fried mice (have I mentioned the fur?), roasted corn on the cob, hard boiled eggs and sodas. It's fun buying stuff through the windows, but can be a bit chancey if the bus is pulling out as you're getting your food.
And that's about it for the food bit. Hope you're all well and enjoying non-fried mice meals.
Update: Christine asked about camping near hippos: they are dangerous, but usually only if you're both on land and you happen to be between them and the water or their little hippos. Otherwise, it's usually pretty safe. Plus, the camp provided each tent with a paraffin lamp for the night (because hippos have bad eyesight and might otherwise tromp through your tent).
