following the potholes of least resistence

We're in Blantyre, Malawi. We arrived late-ish yesterday after three rather rattling days of public transportation through Mozambique. We were on what passes for national highways the entire time, but the roads were generally worse than gravel roads in rural Idaho. Adding to the pleasure was the fact that all of the transport options are old prison buses. Not really, but they certainly look like it. The best one (or worst, really) was the minibus we took from Vilankulos to Chimoio. It had major spiderwebbed cracks running the full width of the windshield that had been repaired with putty. The putty, however, must have been failing, because we spent the whole trip with a broom handle shoved into the front seat back while the broom head was positioned against the largest radiating break in the window, 'hopefully' buttressing any probable implosion.

The scenery outside, though, was stunning. We went from tropical coastline to inland savanna grasslands. We saw thousands of coconut palms, which was fun, though David reminded me of the large number of people killed each year by falling coconuts. Baobab trees abound, too, a tree I've always wanted to see. [The really cool ones that look like the roots have sprouted out of the top, usually seen littering African landscapes when Westerners take pictures.] In an effort to make it four travel days in a row, we're off in an hour or so for Mulanje, which is the town at the base of Mt. Mulanje, which we hope to climb for the next few days.

what's at the intersection of avenidas vladimir lenin and mao tse tung?

The answer, of course, is that we are! We're in Maputo, the capital of Mozambique. After independence from Portugal in 1975, the government was decidedly communist (though they are no longer), as is reflected by their choice of street names in Maputo. The intersection, by the way, is where our hostel is located. At the moment, we're actually at the American cultural center, which I find very amusing, but they have free internet for citizens, which is the only current advantage to holding an American passport.

Woooo!-was I wrong about Swaziland, which is what I get for presuming to write about a country after only being in it for 2 days. Swaziland is very much NOT the last absolute monarchy. There is a parliament and there are elections, though the king is still head of state and consequently has lots of power. It's rather like Morocco, in that sense. (It's terrible, really--for the rest of my life I'm going to compare everything to Morocco-sorry about that!) Also, our mini-bus ride into Mbabane was apparently an anomaly. Neither our bus ride back, nor, more importantly, our mini-bus ride to Maputo, had only one passenger per seat. In fact, for our 5 1/2 hour journey to Maputo, there were 14 of us crammed into space designed for 9 in a Toyota van. The driver, though, still got his own seat.

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news from the kingdom

So, we're in Swaziland (David would like to point out that it's the Kingdom of Swaziland), the last absolute monarchy in the world. Or so they say. We got in Wednesday evening, after a long bus trip from Pretoria. We're camping at a backpacking place called Sondzela in the Mlilwane game reserve. The park and the site are lovely, though we're the only ones camping. The fact that it's winter and rather chilly may have something to do with that. Fortunately, it has yet to get below freezing, but it has come close.

Yesterday, we spent three hours on horse back, more apparently for the viewing pleasure of the animals in the park, than for our pleasure in seeing them. I'm sure we made quite the spectacle, but we had a lot of fun. We got within 20 feet of some of the antelope species (impala, nyala) and zebras. David was especially impressed by how calm they all seemed, though he thought the zebras were laughing at the horses for being domesticated. We also saw warthogs, wildebeest, crocodiles, hippos (including a 5 month old!), kudus (another antelope type) and blesbok (related to the goat, apparently, though I would guess rather distantly, given their appearance, which is not very goat-like). These last animals, though, were all more skittish of the horses, so we didn't get as close.

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